RESPONSIBLE SAFARI: EXPERIENCING AFRICA WITHOUT TAKING FROM IT

A responsible safari is not simply about seeing Africa’s wildlife. It is about understanding that we are entering a living world that existed long before we arrived and that our presence should never come at the expense of the animals, landscapes or people who call it home. For me, that understanding has become increasingly important through the years I have spent travelling through Africa, listening to people’s stories and creating I HEART AFRICA PROJECT. What began as a fascination with the continent gradually became something much deeper, because the more people I met and the more stories I heard, the more I realised that Africa could never be reduced to the animals we hope to see or the landscapes we photograph. It is a continent of people, cultures, communities, histories, wildlife and extraordinary environments, all connected in ways that become much easier to understand when you take the time to listen to the people who know them.

A safari can be one of the most extraordinary travel experiences in the world. There is nothing quite like sitting quietly in a vehicle before sunrise, watching the landscape slowly come to life, listening to birds calling in the distance and wondering what might appear beyond the next bend in the road. There is the anticipation of seeing elephants, lions, leopards, rhinos or buffalo, but there is also something much harder to describe about simply being surrounded by an environment that does not revolve around human beings. For a few hours, the world feels different. You are not the centre of it, and perhaps that is one of the most valuable things a safari can teach us. The wilderness has its own rhythm, its own rules and its own inhabitants, and we are fortunate enough to be allowed into that world for a short time.

That is why I don’t believe a responsible safari should be measured by how many animals you see, how close you get or how impressive your photographs are. Those things can be wonderful, and I completely understand the excitement that comes with seeing an animal you have dreamed about for years, but they are not the purpose of the wilderness. The purpose of a safari should be to experience wildlife without taking away its wildness. The most meaningful encounter may not be the one where an elephant comes closest to your vehicle or where you capture the perfect photograph of a leopard. It may be the moment when you sit quietly and watch an animal behaving exactly as it would if you were not there, knowing that your presence has not interfered with its life.

That philosophy runs through so much of what I discovered while creating I HEART AFRICA PROJECT. The book was never simply about compiling beautiful photographs or creating a catalogue of places to visit. It grew from conversations with people whose lives had become intertwined with Africa, including guides, rangers, conservationists and others who had spent years learning the landscapes they called home. Their stories changed the way I understood what it means to travel through Africa, because they made me realise that the person sitting beside you in a safari vehicle can sometimes teach you more about the continent than the animal you have travelled thousands of kilometres to see. The landscape becomes different when you begin to understand the people who have dedicated their lives to protecting it, guiding others through it and learning its rhythms.

One of those people was Andrew Danckwerts, whose lifelong relationship with the African wilderness began during his childhood in Zambia. His journey into guiding eventually took him across different parts of the continent, and his experiences gave me a much greater appreciation for what a guide actually contributes to a safari. A guide is not simply someone who knows where the animals are. They are someone who understands the landscape, reads tracks, recognises sounds, observes behaviour and knows when an encounter should continue and when it is time to leave. Their knowledge allows a traveller to see far more than they might ever notice on their own, and perhaps more importantly, it can teach a visitor how to move through the wilderness without treating it as though it exists for their entertainment.

That distinction is important because travellers can arrive with expectations that are completely understandable but not necessarily compatible with responsible wildlife viewing. You may have dreamed of seeing a leopard for years. You may have saved for the trip. You may have only three days in a reserve. You may have a camera capable of taking extraordinary photographs, and you may desperately want the perfect image to take home. None of that changes the fact that the leopard has no idea you are there because you have come to see it. It does not understand the money you have spent, the distance you have travelled or the expectations you have brought with you. It is simply living its life, responding to its environment and doing what wild animals have always done.

The animal does not owe us an experience. I think that is one of the hardest lessons for travellers to accept, particularly when a safari represents a significant financial investment. We naturally want our money to produce something tangible. We want to feel that we received what we paid for, and that can create an expectation that wildlife should cooperate with our itinerary. But nature does not work that way. A responsible safari asks us to surrender some of that control and accept that the animal decides what happens next. Perhaps the lion will walk towards you, or perhaps it will walk away. Perhaps the elephants will cross the road directly in front of your vehicle, or perhaps they will remain somewhere beyond the trees. Perhaps you will spend hours searching for a leopard and never see one. That is not a failed safari. It is simply wildlife being wildlife.

Once you accept that, something changes about the way you experience the bush. Instead of constantly asking, How close can we get?, you begin asking, How can we watch without disturbing it? Instead of worrying about whether you have seen every animal on your list, you begin noticing the entire ecosystem around you. You start listening to the birds, watching the behaviour of smaller animals and noticing how the landscape changes throughout the day. You begin to understand that the silence, the anticipation, the unexpected sightings and even the moments when nothing seems to happen are all part of the safari experience. You are not there to make the wilderness perform for you; you are there to witness it.

This is something I believe strongly in when it comes to responsible safari travel: look beyond the Big Five. Of course elephants, lions, leopards, rhinos and buffalo are extraordinary, and I completely understand why people dream about seeing them. But Africa’s wilderness is not built around five species. It is an interconnected system of predators and prey, birds and insects, trees and grasses, rivers and wetlands, tiny creatures and enormous ones. Every part of that system contributes to the health of the whole, and once you start paying attention to those relationships, the safari becomes much richer than simply moving from one large animal sighting to another.

A knowledgeable guide can help you see that. They can point out something you would otherwise have driven straight past, explain why a herd has suddenly changed direction, identify a distant bird call or show you tracks in the sand. They can explain how rainfall changes the landscape, why animals move at particular times of year and how different species depend upon one another. Suddenly the safari becomes more than a search for animals. It becomes an education in how an ecosystem works, and that understanding can be one of the most valuable things you take home.

That is why, when choosing a safari, I would put almost as much thought into the guide as I would into the accommodation. A beautiful lodge can make a trip comfortable, but a great guide can change the way you understand Africa. Andrew’s story in I HEART AFRICA PROJECT reinforced that idea for me. His experience demonstrated that guiding is not simply about delivering wildlife sightings to tourists. It is about creating an understanding of the environment and teaching people how to move through it responsibly. Whether you are walking through the bush or sitting quietly in a vehicle, you are entering a world where your behaviour matters, and the guide is often the person who teaches you how to behave within it.

A responsible guide should also be willing to tell you no, and I think that is an important quality for travellers to recognise. If the vehicle is already at an appropriate distance from an animal, the guide should not move closer simply because a guest wants a better photograph. If an animal is becoming uncomfortable, the guide should recognise that and leave. If the reserve has rules about where vehicles can drive, those rules should be respected, and if guests are asked to remain quiet, they should remain quiet. A guide who protects the animal’s welfare, even when it means disappointing a guest, is doing their job properly. In fact, I would argue that this is one of the clearest signs that you have chosen someone who understands what responsible safari actually means.

That is particularly relevant to wildlife photography, because I know how tempting it can be to try to capture the perfect moment. Through I HEART AFRICA PROJECT, I also had the privilege of hearing the perspective of Gerry van der Walt, whose work as a wildlife photographer and photographic guide added another dimension to the way I think about safari. Photography can be an extraordinary way of telling wildlife stories, but it can also become a distraction from the experience itself. You can become so concerned with shutter speed, composition, focus and getting the perfect frame that you forget to actually look at what is happening in front of you. The camera can become the reason you are watching rather than simply being a tool that helps you remember what you have seen.

I think many of us have become conditioned to believe that an experience is somehow incomplete unless we can photograph it, but it isn’t. You don’t need photographic evidence that you saw an elephant. You don’t need to record the lion calling in the darkness. You don’t need to capture every sunset. Sometimes the most responsible thing you can do is put the camera down and simply watch. There is something incredibly powerful about allowing a moment to exist without immediately turning it into content, because when you stop thinking about the photograph you need to get, you often begin noticing the things that the photograph could never capture: the sounds around you, the movement of the grass, the changing light, the behaviour of the herd and the feeling of sitting quietly in a place that existed long before you arrived.

And when you do photograph wildlife, the animal should always come before the photograph. Never ask a guide to drive closer simply because you want a better angle, never encourage a driver to leave the designated road to reach an animal and never call, whistle or make noises to attract an animal’s attention. Food should never be used to deliberately bring wildlife closer, and guests should never encourage behaviour that causes an animal stress simply because they want a particular image. No photograph is worth disturbing an animal. The most beautiful photograph may actually be the one that shows the animal within its environment, because an elephant beneath an enormous sky, a leopard partially hidden in grass or a lion disappearing into the distance can tell us something much more important than simply what the animal looks like.

Sometimes, of course, you don’t get the photograph at all. The animal moves away, the light changes, another vehicle blocks your view, the leopard disappears or the elephants take a different route. That is Africa. It is not a theme park, and it should never become one simply because tourists want predictable encounters. The uncertainty is part of what makes wildlife extraordinary, because you are witnessing something that is happening independently of you. When the animal chooses to move away, that is not a failure of your safari. It is evidence that the animal remains wild.

This is also why I believe travellers need to be particularly careful about wildlife experiences that promise guaranteed sightings, extremely close encounters or opportunities to touch and interact with animals. Not every wildlife experience is ethical simply because it is marketed as one. Before booking, ask questions about how the animals are treated, whether they are being fed or handled, whether they are kept in captivity and why, whether they are bred specifically for tourism and whether the experience allows them to behave naturally. If the attraction depends upon an animal doing something it would not naturally do, that should make you stop and think. There is nothing wrong with wanting to experience wildlife; there is something wrong with expecting wildlife to perform for us, and that distinction matters enormously.

Responsible safari is also about recognising that conservation cannot exist separately from the people who live alongside wildlife. This is another lesson that has stayed with me through the stories in I HEART AFRICA PROJECT. The continent’s wildlife is not living in isolation from human communities. Across Africa, people share landscapes with elephants, lions, predators and other wildlife, and the relationship can be extraordinarily complicated. For a traveller, an elephant crossing the road can be an unforgettable sight; for a farmer whose crops have been destroyed by elephants, the same animal can represent a very different reality. For a conservationist, protecting a species may involve years of difficult work, while for a ranger it may mean long days in challenging conditions and for a guide it may mean dedicating an entire career to understanding the wilderness.

These perspectives all matter because an ethical safari needs to look beyond the animal itself and consider the broader system that makes the experience possible. Where does your money go? Who employs the guides? Does the operator support local businesses? Does tourism contribute to conservation? Are communities benefiting? Does the company have genuine environmental and wildlife policies, or is it simply using words such as sustainable and eco-friendly because they sound good? Your safari spending has consequences, and responsible travel means becoming conscious of those consequences rather than assuming that the money we spend disappears the moment we return home.

That doesn’t mean every traveller needs to become an expert in sustainable tourism before booking a holiday. It simply means becoming more conscious of the choices we are already making. A locally owned operator may provide income within the community. A lodge that employs local people can contribute to livelihoods. A tourism business that supports conservation can help fund work that visitors never see. Choosing local guides, eating at locally owned restaurants and buying directly from artisans can all help keep tourism spending connected to the places we visit. Responsible safari isn’t about travelling perfectly; it is about travelling consciously and recognising that our choices have an impact.

That is probably the message I keep returning to throughout the responsible travel philosophy behind I HEART AFRICA PROJECT. The more stories I collected, the more I understood that Africa is not simply a destination we consume. It is a continent of people, cultures, landscapes, wildlife and histories, and when we travel there, even briefly, we become part of that story. That means the way we behave matters. We need to stay in the vehicle when we are supposed to, follow the rules of the reserve, keep our distance, listen to our guides, avoid feeding wildlife, refuse inappropriate interactions and never treat local communities as photographic backdrops. We also need to recognise that just because something is available to tourists does not mean it is automatically responsible or ethical.

And perhaps most importantly, we need to be willing to walk away. If an experience doesn’t feel right, you don’t have to participate simply because you have travelled a long way to get there. If you discover that animals are being exploited, you can choose something else. If an operator cannot answer reasonable questions about animal welfare, conservation or community involvement, you can take your money elsewhere. That is one of the most powerful things a traveller has: choice. Every booking is a choice, every photograph is a choice, every interaction is a choice and every dollar spent is a choice. Collectively, those decisions influence what tourism becomes.

When I think about the people whose stories became part of I HEART AFRICA PROJECT, I think about how different Africa looks when you begin to understand it through the people who have dedicated their lives to it. Andrew taught me something about guiding, wilderness and responsibility. Gerry brought the perspective of photography and the importance of experiencing the moment rather than simply capturing it. Their stories, along with the many others that became part of the project, reminded me that the Africa we fall in love with is much bigger than what we see through a safari vehicle window. It is the people behind the experience, the communities surrounding the wilderness, the guides who know the tracks, the rangers who protect the animals, the photographers who tell their stories, the landscapes that sustain them and the wildlife itself.

Perhaps that is what I want people to understand most when they think about a responsible safari. You are not simply buying access to wildlife; you are being given the privilege of entering a living ecosystem. That privilege should change the way we behave. Go slowly and listen to what is happening around you. Ask questions and allow your guide to teach you. Let the animals decide how close they want to be, accept the sightings you are given and accept the ones you are not. Look at the birds, notice the insects and watch the landscape. Put the camera down sometimes, talk to the people who live there and spend your money consciously. When you leave, don’t simply take photographs with you; take understanding.

Because a safari should not end when the vehicle returns to camp. The experience should stay with you and influence the way you think about wildlife, the way you spend money when you travel, the conservation organisations you support and the stories you tell when you return home. That, ultimately, is what I want I HEART AFRICA PROJECT to encourage: not simply more people travelling to Africa, but more people connecting with Africa. The goal of responsible safari is not to take the most extraordinary experience possible from the continent. It is to make sure that the experience remains possible for the people who come after us.

The elephant should still be there. The lion should still be calling in the darkness. The leopard should still be disappearing into the grass. The landscapes should still be wild, and the communities should still have a reason to protect them. The next traveller should still have the privilege of sitting quietly in that vehicle, looking out across the African wilderness and realising that they are not the most important thing in the landscape. We are visitors, and perhaps the most responsible thing we can do is behave like it.

Go with wonder. Travel with respect. Choose with care. Listen to the people who know the land. Let wildlife remain wild. And when you leave Africa, leave knowing that you have taken memories with you without taking something away from the place that gave them to you.

Leave a Reply

Discover more from I HEART AFRICA PROJECT

Subscribe now to keep reading and get access to the full archive.

Continue reading